Shyamala Rao - Artist
 
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Welcome to my blog. This will be an ongoing blog in which I will discuss things I am working on, as well as my thoughts on wildlife conservation. Please come back to this page regularly, as I will update it from time to time.

September 3, 2010

Outcome of trip to Africa:

Filed under: Guest Article, Wildlife — shyamala @ 8:02 pm

Guest blog writer Darla Hedrik is back from a spectacular trip to Africa, she was generous to share with us her article on “Anticipations” and now what we have all been waiting for, the “Outcomes.”

EXPECTATIONS MET AND MORE!!!

It’s hard to believe I’ve been there and back, Africa, the wild continent, the 3rd world continent, the beautiful continent.  Traveling with friends Julian and Donna, and sharing this experience, and having memories and stories to tell for years to come, make this a trip of a lifetime (I know it’s an old cliche but so true in this case!).

Our trip’s focus was on the animals, it was “all about” the wildlife so most of my memories and comments relate to wildlife, but will end with some additional blogs with thoughts about the other sights and tours, countries and peoples.

Possibly the biggest surprise to me of the entire trip was that in spite of this being Africa, home to dictators and third world countries, hunger and strife, in spite of all this, huge efforts have been made to protect the wildlife, setting up reserves and parks and going after poachers (even with new technology like ultralight planes in Kruger).  It’s truly an amazing continent.

First stop, the Ann van Dyk Cheetah Center for Endangered Species in De Wildt, South Africa, north of Johannesburg (http://www.dewildt.co.za/).  You make think it’s strange to start a safari at a location where animals are limited as to where they can roam, but it was actually the perfect start, learning about the endangered species, focus on cheetah’s and the African Wild Dog, but also the vulture, caracal (small cat), and honey badger.  Preparing our minds for what we were to see, and what man has done to hurt and now assist these animals.  We did not see the cheetah’s “running” but we did see them lazing about on a warm sunny morning, graceful and happy.  And this was the only place we saw the near-extinct African wild dogs, sounding and acting like dogs, with their big ears and skinny bodies and beautiful multi-colored coats.  And very hungry dogs at mealtime, when they exhibited more of their “wild” qualities.

Then it was on to the Mala Mala Main camp, in the Sabi Sands Game Reserve, located next to Kruger National Park in South Africa (http://www.malamala.com/malacamp.htm).   We did four game drives in an open jeep-like vehicle with 3 escalating rows of 3 seats each behind the driver and only 5 of us in the vehicle so that we could see in every direction.  The first sighting of wild life was from the plane approaching the runway, and then walking on the edge of the camp, and spotting first an elephant walking across the dry river bed and then the beautiful neck and head of a giraffe, also walking across the large river bed.  And thinking “wow, we are really here!”.  From the deck outside our rooms we were greeted by a large heard of impala and nyala and baboons running around in the background.

We saw the big 5 here, leopard, lion, African (cape) buffalo, rhinoceros and elephant.  We also saw so much more, zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, many types of antelope/impala/kudu, baboons, and the surprising variety and beauty of the colorful birds.  Mala Mala is truly the epitome of game camps, because it is private we could do both off-road driving and night drives, which we could not do in the other two camps in Botswana.  We would see an animal, pull up close (they are very used to the vehicles and do not perceive them as a threat), and just sit and watch them eating, walking, interacting for 5-15 minutes, depending on what was going on.  They seemed so content, performing their daily routines, watching out for each other (the lead and last animals were usually large males).

In all of the camps, each morning, mid-drive we would stop for coffee/tea and biscuits.  Every evening we would stop at sunset for our “sundowners” usually a cocktail (gin and tonic seemed to be our drink of choice) and appetizers– we were right in the middle of the wild, with beautiful scenery all around.  On one especially memorable evening we saw wart hogs, ostrich, jackals and wildebeests while enjoying the sunset and our “sundowners”.

Two sightings here stand out in my mind:  watching a leopard protect its kill (a large waterbuck, think twice the size of a deer), and a lion pride of 9 lions.  This is the only camp where we saw a leopard, the cats are so elusive.  We came upon this leopard after he had made his kill and hauled the waterbuck up 25 feet into a tree to protect it from other animals.  It was just hanging out under the tree late one afternoon and there was a hyena lying in the grass a few yards away, waiting for any droppings, we were told.  We went back the next morning to find a herd of elephants (about eight) near the tree, watched and listened as one elephant chased the hyena away (twice) and the elephants then formed a circle with the younger elephants in the middle and all of the elephants facing outwards in a protective stance.  The leopard had moved up into the tree, just lying there as you would expect to see any house cat lying on the back of a chair–sleepy, watchful, beautiful.

The other sighting was our first sighting of lions, early morning on our last morning at this camp (we were afraid we weren’t going to get to see “the Big Five” here, 75% of visitors do, but could check that off our list after this sighting).  Nine beautiful lions, one adult male, several adult females as well as adolescent male and females.  They were just lying in the grass quite content, we were only a few yards from them, cleaning themselves, sleeping, seemingly peaceful and content.  What a beautiful sight!

Our next stop was to Victoria Falls and more to come on that later.

Then on to Botswana and the mobile “Chobe under Canvas” camp in the Chobe National Park (http://www.andbeyondafrica.com/luxury_safari/botswana/chobe/and_beyond_chobe/accommodation/and_beyond_chobe_under_canvas).  This park was the most unexpected experience of the entire trip.  It is bordered by the Chobe River and Namibia to the North, and contains the largest herds of animals you can possible imagine.  Thousands of elephants and impala, hundreds of African buffalo, zebra, giraffe and hippos, wart hogs, crocodile and lizards, various antelope types, and beautiful majestic birds.  Here we also saw the amazing baobab tree, an “upside down” tree with trunk diameters averaging 52 feet.

We watched elephants throwing water and mud on themselves, and rolling in the mud bank, including the baby elephants, who were never more than a few feet from their mothers.  We saw a buffalo walk up to a crocodile, sniff it and move on (learning that although they are not enemies, they are not quite “friends” either).  We took a boat ride on the Chobe where we saw our first crocs, and watched the hippos lying on the banks.  And we took our last drive of the day, far into the interior of the park where our mobile camp (which moves every 5-6 days) was set up, greeted by candlelight and nine friendly camp staff, served drinks in crystal glasses, eating in the open and sitting around the campfire, listening to two lions, one on each side of the camp, conversing to each other over our heads, wondering what they were planning; as well as hearing many other animal and bird sounds.  We only had one night here, and would have loved to stay here 1-2 more days, due to the abundance of wildlife and the sights we saw.  The most memorable sight here was again on the last morning, a pride of 8 lions, one adult male, adult female and cub on one side of the road, under some brush, lying, interacting, cleaning; and the other 5 lions, young males and females, interacting in the grassland next to the river.  So graceful, playful, majestic!

It was here we saw more private and tour vehicles (being a National Park), and felt so grateful for our small party of 3 when we saw a 5 row, 5 seats-across vehicle packed full of sight-seeing tourists.  There was also public camping here and in our last park.

Then it was on to Xaxanaxa (pronounced ka-ka-NAH-ka) Camp, in the Moremi Game Reserve, in the huge Okavango Delta (http://xakanaxa-camp.com/welcome.asp?page=welcome_home.asp&category=1&P_Category=1&catID=1&Name=Home).  Wildlife here was not as abundant (we were truly spoiled in Chobe), and I was expecting it to be drier, but heavy rain in Angola (to the North), caused the Delta to be experiencing a 30-year high of flood water, and we had to drive thru water (in some spots 4 feet deep), to get around the reserve.  (The water eventually feeds into the Kalahari desert where it evaporates, never reaching an ocean.)

We saw giraffe, zebra, cape buffalo, elephants, baboon, wart hog and many types of antelope at this camp including impala, kudu, springbok, nyala,waterbuk and wildebeeste. We saw animals in the Okavango we hadn’t seen elsewhere, including velvet monkeys, mongoose, small tree squirrels and some new antelope types:  namely the red lechwe, tsessebe, and the steenbok, a very adorable, small antelope (think 2-3 foot-high deer). The Delta has over 400 species of birds as well, most notably we saw the  African Fish Eagle, Crested Crane, Lilac-breasted Roller, Hammerkop, Ostrich, and Sacred Ibis.

A couple of crocs and hippos who slept just outside of our elevated “tents” and an evening boating outing where we spotted colorful birds and a hippo in the water (but could not find the shy sitatunga antelope), made this a very special camp.  We also saw a very rare sight one morning, a pair of lions mating.  This meant we saw lions in each camp and what a way to end our wildlife viewing!

If you realize these are just some of the highlights, maybe you can understand why this is such a special adventure, there are so many more memories than written here.

More to come on non-wildlife items:  Johannesburg, Victoria Falls, comparison of the camps – lodging/staff/food, and the Soweto and Sterkfontaine cave (Cradle of Mankind) tours.

Feel free to e-mail me questions or for a request for links to pictures:  darladh@swbell.net

September 2, 2010

The Big Five of The Serengeti: The Cape Buffalo

Filed under: Wildlife — shyamala @ 7:46 am

12_ADBV9225 Since the posting on Youtube of the “Battle at Kruger” on May 3, 2007 no discussion of the Cape buffalo can begin without referring to the spectacle. It was videotaped by a Texas resident David Budzinski. A pride of lions grabbed a buffalo calf and ended up in the river and crocodiles and lions were at the calf. The lions did manage to pull the calf out of the river and lo and behold a herd of buffaloes swept in and ran the lions off and saved their calf. It appeared shook up but otherwise seemed pretty intact. This fairly well summarizes the character and temperament of the Cape buffalo, stolid, implacable and fearless.

The Cape buffalo is one of the Big Five in the Serengeti and is a ‘must see” on any photo safari. The buffaloes when full grown are huge, weighing between 2000 and 3000 pounds. These mammals are grazers and belong to the Bovid family. Besides buffaloes other animals that belong to the bovid class are cows, yaks and big horn sheep. The Cape buffaloes are very different from the Asian buffaloes which are placid predictable animals and readily domesticated. The African buffaloes are unpredictable intractable and cannot be domesticated. They are prized as trophies by big game hunters.

These big strong mammals are found all over Africa, in the savannah, the plains, the hills and the forests. The large bulls can often be seen wandering through the Serengeti grazing, all alone and left unmolested by the predators. The females and the calves stick to herds and the calves are kept in the middle and well protected by the adults. The members of the herd stick close together when grazing and when going to the watering holes. This is when the calves are most vulnerable and can become separated and picked off by a predator. The buffaloes do not take it lightly when one of their own is killed and put up a great fight and many times they come out the victors. They overpower by their bravery, their size and numbers. The males form bachelor herds and hang around the periphery of the large herds of females and calves. Male calves are ejected from the herd by their mothers when they turn two years old.

10_ADBV9607_a Buffaloes have manes like lions, beards like goats. They sport humps like camels and horns like cows. They have large heads, short necks, broad shoulders and tufted tails. They are large animals and their lumbering gait is unmistakable in the Serengeti. They are seen in a range of colors, reddish brown to darker brown and occasionally almost black. They have crescent horns, large eyes with a piercing gaze and a stern facial expression. When speed is important, buffaloes can sprint at speeds up to 35 miles per hour. They can be formidable opponents. Buffaloes have keen senses of smell and hearing. Their vision is not so acute and less useful for protecting themselves.

Gestation period lasts 11 and ½ months and most of the calves are born in the early part of the rainy season. Cows begin having calves at five years of age. The calves stay with their mothers for a full year. They are nudged aside when the cow has her next calf. The males are pushed out of the herd at two years of age and join bachelor herds. Males mature at six or seven years of age and then they begin the search for a mate that will accept them. Males spar and fight for the attentions of females frequently, the calves spar in play. Adult females do not indulge in sparring and avoid the snorting, bobbing of heads, threatening with bent heads and jabbing with horns that is such a big part of the lives of the adult males and all the calves.

Cape buffaloes are thriving in Africa and their numbers are estimated to be around a million animals. The herds are a sight to behold and their cooperation and closeness is touching. The large bulls traversing the Serengeti, all by themselves are given a wide berth by the other inhabitants of the Savannah and they are indeed an awe inspiring sight. The cows and their tending their calves with gentleness and care all day long is delightful to witness. These mammals are in their natural habitat interacting with one another and going about their lives, calmly and with the complete confidence of being in their element in the African wilderness. It is a sight to behold and celebrate.

20_ADBV9154

August 23, 2010

Anticipations by

Filed under: Uncategorized — shyamala @ 12:25 pm

DarlaHedrik, Guest Blog writer

                                                                     Anticipations and Expectations for Africa.

This is a huge trip for me as I wasn’t sure I’d ever get to go to Africa and be able to take pictures of the abundant wildlife there.  We are basically visiting 5 places and I have different expectations for each place.

We will arrive in Johannesburg, S. Africa following an 18 hour plane ride from Washington, Dulles (with a stop in Dakar, Senegal) so I expect to be a bit out of sync which is why we took an extra day in Johannesburg to do a bit of sightseeing and let our bodies find their own natural rhythms.  A cheetah run is the tour of the day and I hope to see baby cheetahs as this is a sanctuary for several endangered species including wild dogs, hyenas, antelopes, and more.  And to be able to see cheetahs running full out, one of if not the fastest animal in the world, would be very special.  On the way back, at the end of our trip, we will visit the Soweto township and visit the Sterkfontein Caves, the site of some of the most important discoveries concerning human evolution.

Then it’s on to the Mala Mala Game Reserve just outside of Kruger National Park.  Here I expect to see the “Big Five” – lions, leopards, rhinos, elephants and buffaloes.  We will go on 2-3 “explorations” (read 4 hour jeep rides),  and the variation of wildlife in this reserve should be phenomenal including cheetah, zebra, wildebeest, black-backed jackal, wild dog, white and black rhino, hippo and leopard and more.  I am the person that drove over many a dirt road in South Dakota to find the herd of wild buffalo so you can imagine my excitement here.  My expectation is to be totally overwhelmed with the ability to see these animals in their natural habitats, feeding, roaming, running, possibly fighting, and seeing some very young animals.  I imagine my first camp will show me with my mouth hanging open, my eyes bulging and a permanent smile on my face.

After that we fly to Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe to stay in the world-famous Victoria Falls Hotels.  I only saw Niagara Falls last fall for the first time and was mesmerized by it.  Victoria Falls is twice as wide and twice as high and I expect to spend a good amount of time walking, sitting and gazing, and taking lots of videos and still pics (did I mention I’m a wannabe professional photographer and love to take lots of pictures).  We will also go on an elephant ride and a sunset dinner cruise on the Zambezi River. 

Then it’s on to Botswana and the Chobe Under Canvas Mobile Camp on the Chobe River.  Here we will be camping as close to nature as possible in a country that is not overrun by tourists and commercialism although it is in the top 4 economically and have had a focus on tourism and protecting their wildlife developing game preserves for some time which is very impressive.  Our tent will be close to well-used animal trails and near water.  Again I expect to see most of the Big Five and many others.  Between our morning and evening jaunts in either a  4-wheel drive safari vehicle or a boat cruise, we will have afternoons to nap, read, listen to music, swim and relax.  The second camp in Botswana, the Xakanaxa Camp at the Moremi Game Reserve on the Okavango Delta, will be similar yet more close to classic safari camping (read rustic).  Here, in addition to the animals, we are told that we can see many bird colonies including herons, egrets, pelicans, cormorants and storks.  Fishing is also available.

In each camp, I just can’t imagine the delight I will have in each of the animal sightings, at the sunrises and sunsets over this beautiful country, sitting on our “deck” and watching these animals just meander around us, doing what they do every day.  I’m told we will have meals by fabulous chefs that will include familiar and not so familiar dishes and of course wine to go with it.  (Did you know that fabulous wine comes from South Africa?)  

Final thoughts:  And of course I’m expecting everyone to stay well and not experience any of the “sicknesses” we have tried so hard to prepare against (read inoculations and malaria pills).  I’m expecting there to be some travel delays, some things forgotten, and the usual hassles of travel, none of which will impact my excitement for the trip whatsoever.  I haven’t mentioned experiencing the culture which I definitely plan to participate in;  from speaking with the camp staffs, to reading about the African tribes, to shopping for baskets and other native products, and keeping my eyes wide open to trying to understand how these people live every day.

I’ll check back in a couple of weeks.  Can’t wait to tell you if I saw everything that I told you I would and that I hope too.  

                                                                     Guest Blog writer :  Darla Hedrik, photographer and recent South African safari tourist.

August 16, 2010

The Rhinoceros of Africa

Filed under: Wildlife — shyamala @ 1:07 pm

13_ADBV9227 Visitors to the Serengeti through the nineteenth and the first half of the twentieth century did not have to wonder if they would see a rhinoceros in the savannah or the hills. The animals were present in abundance and rhinos were seen wandering around in the manner in which they had lived in Africa for 4 million years. The bulls leading their isolated, solitary lifestyle could be seen ambling leisurely in the tall grassy areas grazing every morning and evening. They could be seen easily as they went to the watering holes. Females with a calf were a frequent sight, the calf walking happily in front of the mother and being watched closely and with fierce protectiveness by its mother. The hunter merely had to load and shoot and load and shoot another and then another, no limits set on how many were killed by each individual hunter. The population of rhinos in Serengeti was being decimated quite unobserved and unremarked by the officials in charge, first German colonial officials and then the British. Policies remained unchanged, until the Serengeti National Park was established in 1939. In the fifties the rhino population was close to extinction in the Serengeti. And an official declaration was made to that effect.

At one time the entire African continent was home to these large mammals with their huge heads, their impressive two horned faces, humped necks, broad shoulders and thick skin draped over their bodies in huge folds. Rhinos are pachyderms like elephants and hippos. In Africa two different kinds of rhinos are found in the wild, the white rhino and the black rhino. The white rhinos are larger than the black rhinos. White rhinos get to be about 6 feet tall and weigh between 3500 and 4500 pounds. Black rhinos are slightly smaller and get to be 5 feet tall and weigh between 2000 and 3000 pounds.

The rhino’s horn is especially important to identify the animal and it is also the reason why rhinos are hunted ruthlessly and against so many laws and restrictions until the white rhino is endangered and black rhino is in a worse plight and is critically endangered. Rhinos have short stubby legs and they look deceptively clumsy. They have three toed feet and most of the weight is borne by the big center toes. When startled, scared or angry they can gallop at speeds up to 30 miles per hour.

Rhinos have great hearing and smell but their eyesight is poor. They use their sense of smell to decide whether to charge or not. The white rhino has a broad mouth and grazes on grass and leaves, the black rhino has a pointed mouth with a finger like mouth with which it can pick leaves off a branch or pick up leaves and grass. Rhinos browse for food in the mornings and the evenings. During the hot part of the day they stay in the shade and cool down. They can sleep standing or lying down. They need between 15 and 20 gallons of water daily. Rhinos enjoy water and swim in the hot weather to cool down.

17_ADBV9260 Rhinos communicate with one other by sound, by spraying urine and by dung heaps. They are solitary creatures and males and females live separate lives. When a female is ready to mate the male will follow her and they spend up to five days together then they go their separate ways. Males do not help the female raise the calves. The female does all the parenting and protecting of her calf entirely on her own. Gestation period is about 16 to 18 months and then she gives birth in tall grass and hides the calf for a few days. At birth the calf weighs between 80 and 140 pounds. Calves suckle for one year during that year they watch and learn grazing like the adults. They continue to stay with their mothers until they are 3 years old. Then the mother nudges the calf to go off on its own, find its own territory and make its own way in the wild. Rhinos can live for 40 years and do so routinely in captivity. However in the wild they are shot by poachers that almost none manage to live for even half of their life span.

Rhino horns are used in Chinese traditional medicines as an aphrodisiac and the prices for a pound of rhino horn is close to five times the price of a pound of gold. The temptation is huge and poachers eagerly and willingly take risks to kill rhinos. International bans on poaching have had no noticeable impact on the killing.

In the 1950s it was announced that rhinos were almost extinct in the Serengeti. In the 1961 a Rhino translocation program was begun. Six black rhinos were moved from the Serengeti to South Africa for heir protection from the poachers who were running amok in the Serengeti. In the 1980s a pregnant female rhino was brought to the Serengeti from Ngorongoro Crater. Slowly other rhinos were reintroduced. Rhinos give birth once in three years and usually have only one calf. There have been births and more additions and now there are seventeen rhinos in the Serengeti. The number is miniscule and the species is at great risk.

There are many organizations helping to promote education and legislation and god willing the species will be brought back from the brink of extinction. The rhinos are kept in a separate and safe enclosure and visitors are not permitted to get into the reserved area. Occasionally one of the rhinos may be seen wandering outside the enclosure in the plains and can be seen by tourists. It is a rare treat in the Serengeti.

On Friday May 21 2010, 6 black rhinos arrived by a Hercules C 130 cargo aircraft and landed at the Serengeti National Park. A total of 32 rhinos are being brought to the Serengeti. This project is a partnership between the Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism, Tanzania National Parks, South Africa Natural Parks and the Frankfurt Zoological Society. These black rhinos are related to those animals that were sent to South Africa in 1961. The hope is that the rhinos will live and breed in the wild in the Serengeti and increase in numbers gradually. Hopefully in our lifetime the Rhino reintroduction program and anti poaching regulations will be successful and seeing a rhino in the wild will once again become a commonplace occurrence in the Serengeti.

August 14, 2010

Guest Writer

Filed under: Uncategorized — shyamala @ 8:05 pm

             Guest Blog Writer Darla Hedrik will be contributing articles on an upcoming photo safari to South Africa , Botswana and Namibia. Darla is an excellent photographer and a great write. Her pithy style of writing and the beautiful photographs will be a delightful addition to the stories about Wildlife on this blog site. The title of the article is “Anticipations”. I am certain it will be of interest to all lovers of wildlife.

                                                                                                                     Shyamala Rao

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